Replay in Montpellier (2,132 km)

(2024-05-16/18) Replay is an Italian fashion brand, the title of a fantasy novel and several songs, but it is also the name of the award-winning graphic novel by Jordan Mechner, the creator of Prince of Persia. The book is subtitled "Memoirs of an uprooted family", but as a matter of fact Jordan's roots are in Czernowitz. We have that in common and I had the privilege to assist Jordan a little bit with his research. Reason enough to say "Hello" to Jordan in Montpellier and, what a great coincidence, I bumped into him at the book signing at the "La Comédie du Livre" book fair in the heart of the city.

After this cultural advertising block, we head from the highest point in the city center, through the obligatory triumphal arch, down to the old town, which is extremely lively and charming in the bright sunshine. Nobody knows why Montpellier lost out to Bourges as European Capital of Culture for 2028 - and neither do I. Maybe it's because North Africans and ethnic Sinti and Roma have been fighting gang wars in the recent past, resulting in deaths and injuries...? Not even the colorful streetcars for image cultivation help, which are not only very beautiful, but above all are available FREE OF CHARGE to the inhabitants of Montpellier.

At the Center of the Universe in Perpignan (1,852 km)

(2024-05-13/16) Less than 1,200 miles of driving and I've already arrived in Perpignan at the Center of the Universe - at least that's what Salvador Dali claims. In 1963, he had a cosmogonic vision and proclaimed Perpignan Train Station [La Gare de Perpignan] to be the Center of the Universe. As if that were not enough, he then captured it on canvas. The monumental oil painting (117 in × 160 in) is now a crowd-puller at the Museum Ludwig in Cologne. From the train station, we walk under palm trees along the dead straight Avenue Général de Gaulle until we meet Salvador Dali in ecstasy on his red high seat. On the way we passed the city palace of wine merchant Emile Drancourt. Abandoned for almost two decades, the 19th century palace was only recently bought by a German artist and architect couple.

Even without visions or mind-bending drugs, Perpignan really is the center of our universe at the moment, all about the Olympic Flame. Even a heavy downpour could neither extinguish the Olympic Flame nor dampen the enthusiasm of the spectators.

Thirty miles from Perpignan, at the south-easternmost tip of France, lies Cerbère. This is where I spent my first vacation with my gang as a teenager almost half a century ago - unforgettable!

Some Things Are Upside Down in Toulouse (1,624 km)

(2024-05-11/13) Not the whole world, but some things are upside down, even on the way to Toulouse. For example, most of the town signs are a peaceful and imaginative protest by farmers against the government's agricultural policy. Spain and the Maghreb are getting closer. The architecture is changing, street signs are now bilingual - French and Occitan - and loads are sometimes carried on the head, which is both elegant and makes for good posture.

Other things here are the same as they have always been. The Pont Neuf [New Bridge] is not new at all, but the oldest surviving bridge over the Garonne dating from 1632. The Canal du Midi, 240 km long, has connected Toulouse with the Mediterranean since 1681. Toulouse is also known as la ville rose - the "pink city" - due to its numerous red-brick buildings. Pink or not, everyday life goes on here, even at the weekend. The garbage collection service squeezes through the narrow streets of the old town and the numerous Jewish institutions are heavily guarded around the clock, here for instance the Liberal Jewish Association of Toulouse.

The Gentrification of Bacalan • Bordeaux (1,337 km)

(2024-05-09/11) Bordeaux is the World Capital of Wine, but has never been nominated as European Capital of Culture. Why not? Bordeaux applied for it in 2013, but was out-competed by Marseille. The gentrification of Bacalan was certainly not as advanced back then. Once a working-class district with a maritime and industrial heritage, it is now THE trendy district in Bordeaux with a multitude of cultural and gastronomic highlights.

The culinary journey through the south-west of France in the Halles de Bacalan can be continued in the fabulous art gardens of the Vivres de l'Art. If it gets too warm (today 28°C / 82 F), I highly recommend a visit to the Bassins des Lumières, which offer a magnificent show in five submarine bunkers formerly built by the Nazis. At the rear of the bunkers, virtually in their backyard, a wild caravan camp of Bulgarian Roma has sprung up; gentrification is still patchy. Bordeaux was the westernmost point of the tour, now it's time to head east!

The Capital of Comics • Angoulême (1,176 km)

(2024-05-07/09) I can't take it for granted that my relatives live exclusively in European Capitals of Culture. My cousin Jean-Jacques, the great-great-grandson of Abraham Fleischer, lives in Angoulême, the Capital of Comics, recognized by Unesco as a Creative City; not bad either! The International Comic Festival and the painted walls route have become landmarks of Angoulême. Perhaps the good weather also played a role, but I certainly felt very much at home in this city with its very morbid charm, even if it hasn't (yet) made it to the European Capital of Culture. Oh, did I mention that the bathroom window of my apartment looks out of Obelix's backside...?

Four Years Too Early In Bourges (894 km)

(2024-05-06/07) All the previous stages of my tour were European Capitals of Culture. Antwerp (1993), Lille (2004) and of course Paris (1989). What about Bourges? Bourges will be one of two European Capitals of Culture in 2028, along with Budweis in the Czech Republic. Postcard idylls at every corner of the historic old town, but do you notice anything?

On this sunny afternoon, there is hardly anyone on the streets, Bourges seems deserted to me. Tourists and locals sometimes see things differently. Some appreciate the peace and quiet and have mixed feelings about the hustle and bustle that will accompany the nomination as European Capital of Culture. In any case, I'm definitely here four years too early, so I move on after just one night.