08 July 2025

East or West? • Poznań (5,095 km)

(06.07.2025-09.07.2025) On Sunday, I—along with 35 million other residents of Poland—received the following text message from the RCB Disaster Management Center: "Starting July 7, the Border Guard will implement controls at the German and Lithuanian borders for entry into Poland." Hmm, a year ago, the RCB warned me about a severe storm with strong winds and heavy rainfall, but now the upcoming border controls are being listed alongside earthquakes, floods, tornadoes, etc.? It doesn't affect me, as I'm traveling west from Lublin. One would think so, but when I arrive in Poznań, I notice the relatively high number of kebab shops, barber shops, and Orient markets. Obviously, there is a demand for them, and the streetscape has indeed changed; it is much more diverse than elsewhere in Poland—too diverse, many would say, and the announced border controls have something to do with it. However, a striking number of German senior citizen groups have come to Poznań unmolested and populate the Old Market Square and the Old Town, which is therefore better visited in the early morning hours. As a contrast, lost places offer exactly the opposite, and you can even find them in the center of Poznań. It's one minute to midnight, because the areas of the old gasworks and the old slaughterhouse are cordoned off and construction is in full swing. The weather is deteriorating. Rain, diversity, German senior citizens, large construction sites – it all seems very familiar to me, so I might as well drive further west, says my wife!


East of Culture • Lublin (4,600 km)

(Lublin, 03.07.2025-06.07.2025) Except for Timișoara, all of the previous stops on my journey were new territory for me. Either I had never been there before, or if I had, it was so long ago that it was long forgotten. Not so Lublin—I was here three years ago, and there are good reasons why I came back. Is it the people, who are so friendly, down-to-earth, and unpretentiously self-confident? Yes, but that's generally the case in Poland. Is it the colorful old town with its Mediterranean flair? Yes, but there are beautiful old towns elsewhere in Poland too. Is it the East of Culture Festival, beneath Lublin Castle? Yes, that's what it is. This international cultural hotspot has dominated my schedule over the last few days:

Music: NFNR (UKR), Laraaji (USA), The Messthetics & James Brandon Lewis (USA), Mitsune (JAP/GRC/AUS), Zamilska (POL), Flower & Pines (BLR/POL), Yonatan Gat (USA)

Film: Uppercase Print by Radu Jude (ROM)

Literature: Igor Pomeranzew (UKR) from Czernowitz

All of this is gratis and outdoors, located beneath Lublin Castle, in a relaxed atmosphere with a predominantly young audience. Lublin refers to itself as the "City of Inspiration" and will be the European Capital of Culture in 2029 – for me, it already is today!

https://innebrzmienia.eu/en/festiwal/line-up/


04 July 2025

High Noon • Rzeszów (4,386 km)

(Rzeszów, 01.07.2025-03.07.2025) We begin our tour at the historic market square in Rzeszów and discover the birthplace of Fred Zinnemann (1907-1997), the legendary Hollywood director who spent his childhood here. His greatest success was the western "High Noon," and it is now five minutes to high noon for Ukraine and Rzeszów. The "City of Rescuers," as it is referred to by Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy, has taken in about 100,000 Ukrainian war refugees since the start of the war of aggression against Ukraine, despite having a population of only 200,000. Rzeszów-Jasionka Airport is a hub for military aid from the West. If, instead of the biplane, I had photographed the military installations and the numerous American Patriot missile systems at the airport, my tour would probably have ended here; we certainly don't want that. The fact is that a few weeks ago, the US announced the withdrawal of its forces from Rzeszów and has now announced a halt to deliveries of Patriots. The Old Jewish Cemetery in the city center was devastated during the Nazi era. The Red Army Memorial was built on its ruins, and today its existence is just as threatened as the Monument to Revolutionary Deeds, which dates from the communist era. Just one hundred kilometers from the Ukrainian border, the dangers posed by an aggressive and revisionist Russia are not taken lightly—it's high noon! 


Lenin Steelworks • Miskolc (4,050 km)

(Miskolc, 30.06.2025-01.07.2025) What do you do with a decommissioned steelworks in the post-industrial age? You can turn it into a tourist attraction, as the Völklinger Hütte did, which we visited on the first stage of the tour. But you can also let it rust away and keep it under strict guard, as here at the former Lenin Steelworks in Miskolc. It was known by that name for over forty-five years, then, after the Solidarność revolution, it was privatized in the 1990s and subsequently dismantled. Lenin steelworks existed not only in Hungary, but also in Ukraine, Bulgaria, and Poland; interesting waypoints for a future tour...? If I had driven straight to the Jewish cemetery north of Miskolc to get an overview, I could have spared myself the cat-and-mouse game with the plant security guards on the former steelworks site. I hate to admit it, but the security guards made the rules, so I'll have to leave it at panoramic photos. As an alternative, I took a ride on the Lillafüred Forest Railway into the countryside around Miskolc; no rust red or steel gray, just green, green, and more green, which wasn't bad either.

01 July 2025

Biennial • Timișoara (3,653 km)

(Timișoara, 28.06.2025-30.06.2025) I have visited Timișoara several times, most recently in 2023, when Timișoara was European Capital of Culture. The university city is the historical, economic, and cultural center of Banat, a multi-ethnic border region between Romania, Serbia, and Hungary. The Romanian revolution against Nicolae Ceaușescu's communist dictatorship started here. Was Timișoara's designation as Capital of Culture just a flash in the pan? No, because the economic boom in Romania's third-largest city was already noticeable before that, and this trend has gotten stronger over the last two years. The biennial currently taking place and the rich cultural offerings are eagerly embraced by young and old alike – including me. Brutalism and lost places can also be found here. The S.T.P.T. tram depot will have to wait until my next visit to Timișoara.

https://artencounters.ro/en/bienale/ebienala-2025/